Muskrat Floats: An Overview

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Thought this may be an opportunity to establish a reference for muskrat floats on the Archive register. Over the past two years, I have commented on them when asked, and have assembled an album of various designs for my personal Trapping Library.

Let me preface this commentary with the fact that I am by no means an expert, authority, or long term muskrat float trapper, although I have used them. My interest in them has been more out of curiosity to catalog the ingenuity of designs through research and to compliment my Trapping Library for the benefit of younger trappers who wish to explore their use as a methods option.

Before using these floats, it would be best to check your state's trapping regulations, especially for being able to use the floating "colony trap" version, which is essentially a multiple catch trapping device that cannot be used in several states.

Here is a compilation of several different muskrat float images taken from internet resources and cataloged for this ongoing library. None of them are mine! I made a few "floats" as a kid 50 years ago - very crude, and not near the caliber of these. And, a couple over the years since then. I have credited the makers when possible. I will continue to catalog additional muskrat float variations as they show up to add to this journal.

These floats can be anchored from the unit to the bottom using a weight, or stake, with wire , cable, or chain for attachment - a personal preference dependent upon the substrate in a given location and the ease of installation.

An often asked question is if floats can be used in rivers. In my opinion, yes, if you can keep them out of the heavy currents, along the edges, or in backwater areas. The biggest concern for using them in a river environment would be the potential for extreme fluctuations in water levels from heavy rain in the watershed, or from hydroelectric operations between dams and navigational locks, if that may be the case in your situation. Anchoring where wide fluctuations in water levels is a factor, a slip noose of some configuration is used on a solid, tall enough stake for the depth to the float to a accommodate that variation.

Tidal marshes undoubtedly have their own unique water level considerations. Maybe some of the larger river, or tidal marsh trappers here have made extensive use of them in their unusual trapping environments and can elaborate on their utility and how they anchor them in those conditions.

I used them many years ago in the quiet waters of wide ditches, farm ponds and in cattail marshes just to see if they "worked." They have their little niche in the muskrat trapping drama, but are cumbersome to handle, transport and anchor. They would not be a desirable consideration for my rat trapping methods, but I have a couple in case I may ever want to use one for that rare application.


The use of brand new wood for floats often arises. For the "wooden" framed floats, it would be best to use "aged" wood if you can locate some scrap lumber already in that condition. To weatherize it from scratch as new wood may take longer than you think. If new wood is your only option, get some cheap black, brown, or dark green spray paint at the "dollar" store and dust it after construction. Or, you could get a wood stain with a color of your choice and swab it down to cover the light wood.

Another major consideration is their high visibility for potential theft. With the thoughts of minimizing a float's visibility, reducing theft potential, and increasing attractability for the rats, camouflaging could easily be incorporated into to them. Although, some trappers using those with the colorful flotation foams, claim the bright colors are actually a bonus as a sight lure for the rats to check out the float. Experiment, observe and learn!

Any of these designs could be readily adapted with camouflage, using a little ingenuity, to accommodate a natural looking covering from local vegetation, or shoreline debris to match the surroundings as much as possible if so inclined. Possum Skinner's float is a prime example of "hiding" the structure with a reed mat, as well as providing a more natural look that may be more attractive for muskrats to investigate and to minimize visibility as a deterrent for theft.

The dimensions for these can be estimated by using the traps as a reference for extrapolation to measurements.

Jonathan

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#1 - "Mingo" Rat Floats - Canada




#2 - "Mingo" Closeups



#3 - "ADC" Rat Float



#4 - "CJ" Rat Float



#5 - "Animals Only" Rat Float - #1



#6 - "Animals Only" Rat Float - #2



#7 - "Freeburg Trapper" Rat Float



#8 - "Keith French" Rat Float



#9 - "Fishguts" Rat Float - #1



#10 - "Fishguts" Rat Float - #2



#11 - "Fishguts" Rat Float - #3



#12 - Unknown 4-Way Rat Float



#13 - Unknown Rat Float - #110's



#14 - "Youngcoon" Rat Float



#15 - "Possum Skinner" Rat Float - #1



#16 - "Possum Skinner" Rat Float - #2



#17 - "Possum Skinner" Rat Float - #3



#18 - "Bak2trappin" Rat Float



#19 - "Northcountry" Rat Float - #1



#20 - Northcountry" Rat Float - #2



#21 - "trapper_max" Rat Float - #1



#22 - "trapper_max" Rat Float - #2



#23 - "pigtrapper" Rat Float



#24 & 25 - "Sprytle" Rat Float - #1 & 2





#26 - #28 "WalkonWater" Rat Float - #1,2 &3







#29 - "madtrapper" Rat Float



#30 - "Cumbtrapper" Rat Float - Canada



#31 - "Riley Johnson" Rat Float



#32 - "Casey" Rat Float



#33 - #36 "Ketchikan" Colony Float #1,2,3&4





#37 - "Ketchikan" Colony Trap Float #5



#38 - "Dew" Rat Float, Michigan



#39 - #41 - "aqua.driller" Rat Float, Illinois





#42 - "Hawkeye" Rat Float - Maine



#43 - "Mailman1" Rat Float



The rough dimensions for this floating "colony" trap are as follows:
- Overall unit = 24" tall, 12" wide
- Upper chamber = 7"X7"X12"
- Lower chamber = 12"X17"
- The platform is 12"X36", with 6" extensions on the ends for trap placement.

Note the unique use of burlap for the upper chamber.

This colony trap was patterned after this one:

#44 - "pnwmtnma" Rat Float - Washington



Details and plans for constructing this trap by "pnwmtnma" are in this link:

www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/243644/Colony_Trap_Building_a_Floatin#Post243644

#45 - Brahn Commercial Float



#46 - Melby Commercial Float



#47 - Muddyriverdogz - Illinois


#48 - #53 - Riverman - Minnesota













#54 - Vinke, WA - Cage Trap On Float



#55 - #59 - Beavernator, NC

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Recycling For A Muskrat Float - Plastic Bottles (Above)

This muskrat float illustration was just sent to me from a member on a Canadian trapper's forum, "Cumbtrapper."

It is rather unique in that it uses two, recycled, 2 liter soda bottles secured to the wire ramp by plastic "ties." The bottles were spray painted black.

The degree of "floatation" on this device is regulated by adding water to the bottles to lower it and balance it.

This is testimony to the fact that there are no limits to a trapper's productive imagination.

Jonathan

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This is a very innovative technique used for a "working" muskrat float. It is from an older post that appeared in the Wild About Trapping trapper's forum

Jonathan

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Muskrat Float Set
Submitted by Ron Gueldner

Hi Guys. You sure have a great site. Initially I didn't think I would share my "secret" muskrat technique, but after reading all of your articles etc. I am going to. You may know this one, but I learned it more than thirty years ago trapping 'rats in Saskatchewan. I made all of my spending money this way and it held me over for the year. I checked my line twice a day, and normally all the traps were filled both times.

I like to use #1 or #1-1/2 long springs for this setup. What you need for each setup is a large can - (You can get industrial food cans for free from most restaurants) or anything else that is about the size of a half gallon of milk.

Then you need to make a raft. I cut up used pallets for mine, again these were free. Make your raft out of four strips of wood about 20 to 24 inches long, with two shorter pieces nailed across at the bottom.

On the top, in the middle of the raft, put in a couple of finish nails that stick out about 1/8" that are just the size of the traps frame. This keeps the trap from getting knocked off, but lets a snapped rat jump off easily. Put in a fence staple at the front of the raft and another at the back. You can staple your trap ring on directly or wire it to the shore line so you won't lose it.

Hook up your shore line to the front staple and trap ring and stake it out. I like about seven feet of wire. Hook up your anchor wire to the back staple and then the can. Where I trapped five to six feet was plenty but you will have to adjust based on your water level.

Here is the great part of this set- set your trap and put it into position held by the nails. Put your can (filled with rocks) on it. It should float, more or less. Now push it out to the end of the shore wire and push the anchor can off with your trapping stick that is about nine to ten feet long. You are now in business. You can check these in a flash, when you see no trap on the board you have a catch. Obviously, we didn't have trap thieves where I lived!!!

To reset- just pull in the anchor wire and do it all again.

I don't know why, but every rat that cruises by will get on the board. No bait, scent etc. I have watched and seen it happen many times. I was also surprised to see that the average rat caught this way was drowned in under 30 seconds.

I hope you can use this technique and can benefit as much from it as I do. Good luck trapping!

-Ron Gueldner

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The last Colony Trap Float pictured here was submitted by "Ketchikan," a young trapper from South Dakota. He and his father built this float from modified plans originally found in a FF&G Magazine article.

For those who may be interested in constructing one, here are the dimensions for your reference:

The platform for this unit is 13"X32", the hole is 4" in diameter, and the wire is 1"X2".

The cage dimensions are recorded as "LWH" - length, width, height.

Upper Cage: LWH= 24"X13"X10"

Lower Cage: LWH= 18"X13"X22"

Regards,

Jonathan

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Hello Jonathan concerning the measurements

The cage dimensions are recorded as "LWH" - length, width, height.

Upper Cage: LWH= 24"X13"X10"

Lower Cage: LWH= 18"X13"X22"

is the very last measurement a typo is the 22" suposed to be 12"" instead of 22" I was looking at the number of holes on the 1" by 2" wire and counting holes to get the measurements just wondering thanks for posting the library
many kind regards david johnson

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This very unique four-chambered design was developed by Mason_Jarr, an Idaho trapper and member of the trapper's forum, Trapperman.com. Because it is so unusual, and effective, I have included the plans. Further details and discussion can be reviewed here:

www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1194239/Re_Homemade_muskrat_floats#Post1194239

The apparent redundancy is deliberate - in case something happens to the original threads.

Jonathan